When I give workshops around the country, one of the most common questions students ask me before their Russian year abroad is not about grammar, religion, money or even visas.
It is food.
More specifically: What will I actually eat in Kazakhstan or Kyrgyzstan?
Food in Central Asia comes with a lot of stereotypes, exaggerations and misunderstandings. Some students expect nothing but meat. Others worry they will not be able to find anything familiar. Some are vegan or vegetarian and want to know whether a year abroad in Almaty, Astana or Bishkek is even possible.
So, welcome to part one of a three-part blog series on food in Central Asia. Across the series, I will cover:
Traditional food in Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan
Foods you may already recognise, but with Central Asian twists
British foods that are surprisingly hard to find while you are out there
Full disclosure: I am not vegan or vegetarian, but I have tried several times in my life to follow Orthodox fasting rules, which often means eating vegan on certain days or weeks of the year. So I do have some experience of trying to avoid meat and dairy in this part of the world.
And yes, it can be done.
A former student of mine, Millie, spent a semester in Almaty fully vegan and absolutely slayed doing so.
Having said that, being fully vegan is still challenging, especially outside the bigger cities. In my experience, it is generally easier in Almaty and Astana than in Bishkek, although Bishkek is improving too. The traditional Central Asian diet is very meat- and dairy-heavy, and that makes sense when you understand the history of the region.
If you are preparing for a Russian year abroad in Kazakhstan or Kyrgyzstan, one thing you will notice quickly is that traditional meals often centre around meat, broth, dough, rice or dairy.
Historically, many Kazakh and Kyrgyz communities were nomadic or semi-nomadic pastoralists. People moved across steppes, mountains and valleys with animals that could survive harsh conditions: horses, sheep, goats, cattle and camels. Before large-scale sedentarisation and urbanisation, food had to come from what was mobile, durable and available.
That is why meat, milk, fermented dairy products, dough and preserved foods are so central to the traditional food culture.
You are also unlikely to find pork in traditional Kazakh or Kyrgyz dishes. Islam has played an important role in the region, and pork is not a normal part of Kazakh or Kyrgyz cuisine. You may still find it in some supermarkets or restaurants, especially those serving Russian, European, Korean or other international food, but it is not central to the local food scene.
So, what should you actually try?
Here are some of the traditional dishes you are likely to encounter in Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan:
If you spend any time in Central Asia, you will meet plov.
Plov is a rice dish usually made with meat, carrots, onions, oil and spices, cooked in a large kazan. The origins of plov are debated across the region, and every country, city, family and restaurant seems to have its own version.
In Kazakhstan, you may see versions described as Tashkent-style, Samarkand-style, wedding plov or Bukharan plov. These names usually refer to styles associated with parts of Uzbekistan, rather than meaning you will necessarily find “Tashkent plov” labelled that way in Tashkent.
In Kyrgyzstan, many people call the dish paloo or osh. Saying “plov” will not usually offend anyone, but you may hear locals gently correct you or use the Kyrgyz term instead.
For students on a Russian year abroad in Central Asia, plov is one of those dishes you will probably eat many, many times. It is filling, affordable and often served at gatherings.
Beshbarmak is often described as the national dish of both Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan.
The name means “five fingers”, because it was traditionally eaten with the hands. The dish is simple in concept but can take hours to prepare. It usually consists of boiled meat — often horse, lamb or beef — served over wide, flat noodles. Think of lasagne sheets, but boiled and served under meat and broth.
In Kazakhstan, you may see it served with kazy, a horsemeat sausage. In Kyrgyzstan, mutton or beef versions are also common. It may come with onion, potato, carrot or broth on the side.
There are differences between Kazakh and Kyrgyz versions, but I will be honest: unless you are eating it with someone who really wants to explain the distinction, the main experience is similar. It is meat, noodles, broth, hospitality and a very full stomach.
Kuyrdak, also spelled kuurdak in Kyrgyz contexts, is fried meat with onions and often potatoes.
Traditionally, it could be made immediately after slaughtering an animal and might include liver, lungs, kidneys or other offal. In restaurants, you are more likely to find versions made with lamb, beef or horse meat, sometimes with potato and onion.
It is simple, fatty, filling and usually good value. If you are very squeamish about offal, ask what is in it before ordering.
Kazan-kebab is similar in spirit to kuyrdak but often uses larger or better cuts of meat, sometimes still on the bone. It is cooked in a kazan and usually served with potatoes.
It is rich, heavy and very satisfying after a cold day.
This is not usually the dish you order when you want a light lunch before a language class. This is the dish you order when you want to sit down properly and not move for a while.
Manty are steamed dumplings, and they are one of the most student-friendly foods in Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan.
They usually contain minced or chopped meat, onion and fat, but you can sometimes find pumpkin manty too. Pumpkin manty are particularly useful if you are vegetarian, although you should still check whether they have been cooked with animal fat.
Manty are usually served with sour cream, tomato sauce, chilli sauce or vinegar. They are cheap, filling and widely available.
Some viewers may find this image distressing, so only swipe if you're okay with looking at a dead animal's head.
Bas tartu is not something every international student will encounter, but it is worth knowing about.
It is a ceremonial dish involving a sheep’s head, often served with meat, noodles or vegetables. The head is not a gimmick; it has cultural meaning and is connected to respect, hierarchy and hospitality.
If you are invited to a traditional meal and something like this appears, do not panic. Watch what others do, ask polite questions, and remember that being offered food is often a gesture of welcome.
Bürme qaryn is sometimes described as a Kazakh or Kyrgyz relative of haggis.
It involves meat and other ingredients cooked inside an animal stomach. Depending on the version, it may include horse meat, lamb ribs, beef, potatoes, carrots or other ingredients.
You are unlikely to find this in every student canteen or casual café, but it is one of those dishes that shows how much traditional cuisine values using the whole animal.
Irimshik is a type of cheese or curd, usually made from cow or sheep milk. It can be pale or brownish and is often eaten as a snack or sweet dairy food.
Texture-wise, it can feel a little like firm tofu or crumbly cheese. Taste-wise, I personally find it quite mild. But sweet cheese as dessert? Honestly, there are worse things.
Chak-chak is a desert of Tartar origin, but you will see it across the region.
It is made from small pieces of fried dough coated in honey or syrup, then left to set. It lasts for ages, which makes it ideal for guests, tea tables and “oh no, someone has arrived unexpectedly” moments.
I quite like chak-chak, so I never complain when it appears.
Baursak in Kazakh, boorsok in Kyrgyz, are small pieces of deep-fried dough.
They are not hollow inside, and they are usually served with tea, soup, beshbarmak or as part of a larger spread. Traditionally, they are savoury or plain, but a few places sometimes turn them into desserts.
The last time I went to Kazakhstan, I saw baursak served with Nutella and condensed milk. I was not expecting it to be good, but I actually kind of liked it...
Do not tell my traditionalist friends.
Yes, but you need to be prepared.
If you are vegetarian, you will usually have an easier time than vegans. You can often find salads, bread, potatoes, pumpkin manty, cheese, eggs, soups, Georgian food, Korean salads, Indian restaurants and international cafés, especially in bigger cities.
If you are vegan, it is more complicated because dairy, butter, sour cream and animal fat appear in places you may not expect. You will need to ask questions, learn key food vocabulary in Russian, and be comfortable explaining what you do and do not eat.
Useful phrases include:
Я вегетарианец / Я вегетарианка — I am vegetarian.
Я не ем мясо — I do not eat meat.
Я не ем рыбу — I do not eat fish.
Я не ем молочные продукты — I do not eat dairy products.
Есть ли мясной бульон внутри? — Is there meat broth in this?
Это приготовлено на животном жире? — Is this cooked in animal fat?
If you are going on a Russian year abroad and have dietary requirements, practise these phrases before you leave. They will be just as important as knowing how to buy a SIM card or ask for directions.
Food in Kazakhstan and food in Kyrgyzstan can feel intimidating at first, especially if you have dietary restrictions or if you are not used to eating much meat.
But food is also one of the best ways into the culture.
If reading this has made your Russian year abroad feel a little more real, be it exciting or intimidating, that is exactly the kind of preparation we work on inside Steppe with Confidence. The programme is not just about memorising more vocabulary. It is about building the practical Russian, cultural understanding and confidence you need for everyday life abroad: ordering food, asking questions, handling awkward moments, and taking part more fully once you arrive. Food is just as much at the heart of this programme as numbers are, so it's definitely something to consider.
You can find out more about the programme through the Steppe with Confidence page, or start with the application page if you would like to see whether it is the right fit.
Start with beshbarmak, baursak, kuyrdak, manty and plov. These are common dishes and will give you a good introduction to traditional food in Kazakhstan.
Try beshbarmak, kuurdak, paloo or osh, manty, boorsok and kumyz if you are feeling adventurous.
It is possible to be vegetarian, especially in Almaty, Astana and Bishkek, but traditional food is very meat-heavy. Learn key Russian phrases before you go.
Yes, but it requires planning. Bigger cities are becoming more vegan-friendly, but you will need to ask about meat broth, dairy and animal fat.